Gallery Three / African Wildlife Photography
and Narratives
To proceed to additional African galleries click
on the text links below the narrative. Text links on this web site are
designated by blue text which changes to orange as you pass over it
with your mouse. Text links are not underlined. To return to another
main gallery click on the large navigation text below or use the links
contained in the filmstrip image map above. All site navigation is also
available at the bottom of each page.
Below are direct links to the Zimbabwe narratives:
Zimbabwe
narrative -- "The Wildest Place -- On the Ground with the African Cape
Buffalo"
Zimbabwe narrative
-- "The Persistence of Memory -- (The) Ancient Wisdom (of Elephants)"
Zimbabwe narrative -- "(A
Tribute to the) Guides of Zimbabwe"
Zimbabwe
narrative -- "Rushinga and the Day of Reckoning"
Zimbabwe
narrative -- "Third World"

[click image above for a larger view]

[click image above for a larger view]

[click image above for a larger view]

[click image above for a larger view]

[click image above for a larger view]
|
“Africa gets under your skin and into your soul.” -- Sue B.
"Great (!)
Zimbabwe 2001 African Eclipse and Safari / Gallery Three Narratives"
|
"(A Tribute to the) Guides of Zimbabwe"
|
"That's
a very nice monopod and ball-head you have," proclaimed Doug,
the Chief Guide and general manager of Spurwing Island Camp in
northern Zimbabwe. This island is located near the southern shore
of Lake Kariba, a man-made affair created in the 1950's when the
great Zambezi River (4th largest in Africa) was incarcerated by
the dam at Kariba Town. Doug and his able group of guides would
be our hosts on some of our exploration of the wilderness of Matusadona
National Park, extending from the southern shore of the lake inland
some 50 kilometers in 3 directions. "Well, you know that in photography
it's all about the glass, and no out-of-focus photograph is of
any real value," I note. Hence the rigid (if unwieldy) foundation
for the admittedly laughably oversized piece of glass known as
a 300mm telephoto lens. "Oh, and it's a medium-format camera --
you have a lot of ('courage') attempting wildlife photography
with that rig," Doug further exclaimed. I silently thanked him
for noticing, as frankly I've been struggling with it. I'm much
more accustomed to the 35mm setup, but splurged to obtain this
rig to record the wonders of southern Africa on our splendid journey
around the country of Zimbabwe. We're supposedly here to observe
the Total Solar Eclipse, and of course we'll do that, but what
western person hasn't dreamed of all the natural wonders of Africa?
At any rate, I was appreciative of his knowledge of the camera
equipment. We would find out that Doug (and honestly all the guides
we had the privilege of meeting) were highly trained professionals
with an extensive naturalist background -- most were graduates
of a rigorous 5-year program that included naturalist and ecological
knowledge as well as ballistics training and a requirement to
be on the ground and participate in the hunting of a "Big 5" species,
which include the African Elephant and the very dangerous African
Cape Buffalo. This hunting is not done indiscriminately, but under
very strict guidelines and for a purpose -- much more comment
on this is included in the writing piece entitled "The
Persistence of Memory."
Each guide we rode with [most game viewing is done from a Land
Rover (or equivalent) platform fitted with bench seats, roll cage,
and generally no top] had extensive knowledge of birds, for example.
It's one thing to be able to spot and identify creatures that
weigh 5 tons or tower above the trees; it's quite another to identify
one of the 300-plus species of birds merely by their song, and
visually ID them from a distance so far away that I couldn't find
them in the binoculars! I remember one instance where Lucky (of
Dabula Safaris and Chimwara camp) was pointing directly at the
tiny Pearl-Spotted Owl from no more than 3 meters. The bird itself
was ensconced in a thick bush perhaps 1 meter from the ground,
yet even though Lucky was pointing directly at it, I could not
see it until the tiny raptor moved. Really, we were only 3 meters
away!
It's
one thing to be able to spot and identify creatures that
weigh 5 tons or tower above the trees; it's quite another
to identify one of the 300-plus species of birds merely
by their song . . . |
The guiding in Zimbabwe is certainly
mostly accomplished from vehicles; the routine is to ride around
in these open vehicles hunting for game. The guides stop anytime
you ask, and also engage in nature interpretation at regular
intervals or when an extraordinary sighting occurs. There is
apparently an obvious advantage for so many sets of eyes peering
out over the landscape, but honestly most first sightings are
amazingly by the guide, who is much lower than the tourists,
obviously in the driver's seat. Also, for some reason most big
game seems rather ambivalent about the noisy vehicles, and will
often allow very close encounters. My deep feeling is that although
the animals may be a bit nonplused with the Land Rovers, their
attitude would change considerably if you were to be so moronic
as to leave the vehicle in their presence. There are some entertaining
guide's tales of this sort of opacity, of course.
A
special treat is a walking safari, always with an armed
guide . . . There is something very special about being
on the ground with such animals. |
A special treat is a walking
safari, always with an armed guide. With this activity the tourist
and guide get to be up close and personal -- often the big game
keeps a wide margin, but every once in a while, like in Gona-Re-Zhou
National Park, Japhet was able to approach the African Cape
Buffalo from very close range. There is something very special
about being on the ground with such animals.
Below is a very partial listing of safari guides and a small
comment on each -- I would ask forgiveness for any omissions
or typos -- suffice it to say that all of our experiences with
the guides of Zimbabwe were superior. Thanks to you all!
Chimwara Camp -- Stuart --
What a wonderful introduction to the African bush; I'll never
forget that first sunset at the Oxbow lakes. The powerful image
of the Hwange National Park matriarchal breeding herd of African
Elephants will haunt me forever. Also, you moved me with your
statement; "In America, you once also had elephants and lions."
Chimwara Camp -- Lucky --
How are you able to spot all of those birds?; and please keep
telling those wonderful African animal legends.
Chimwara Camp -- Danielle
-- Our Milky Way galaxy does look like an edge-on spiral, doesn't
it?
Spurwing Camp -- Gadrick --
It is amazing how you track those lions, and your knowledge
of prints and sign is unsurpassed. Also, I'll never forget those
migrating elephants swimming across the lake.
Spurwing Camp -- Doug -- Your
general and archaeological knowledge and confident demeanor
were wonderful, and that afternoon with the two elephants was
a treat. Thanks for your understanding of camera angle and lighting.
Spurwing Camp -- Andrew --
Amazing how you were able to get to the shoreline and serve
sundowners with such perfect timing. My photo of that particular
sunset is my best landscape of the entire trip. Thanks!
Mahenye Camp -- Stephen --
Thanks for all of you lore and your excitement about the outdoors.
You are an inspiration.
Mahenye Camp -- Japhet --
What can I say? Your powerful presence and deeply spiritual
view of the land and animals were the highlight of our trip
to Africa. Your on-the-ground up-close-and-personal style of
guiding is superior; I'm sure I'll never forget our visit to
Mahenye.
Big Cave Camp -- Dave and his entire
staff -- Due to the rescue event at your camp my records
of names are a little obscure. Suffice it to say that when an
emergency occurs it's obvious that your staff is top-notch and
excellently trained. Nothing like this sort of event to bring
out the best in everyone. Certainly the rhino viewing and Rock
Art were exceptional as well.
Thanks to all of you, and also to those I've undoubtedly overlooked.
In Zimbabwe the guides are proud of their training and knowledge.
They ought to be. It is said that the guides in Zim are the
best in all of Africa. I don't have every detail, but based
on a side-trip we took to Botswana (enjoyable, nevertheless)
I'd surely agree.
In photography, it's all about the glass. In the bush of Zimbabwe,
it's all about the guides. Of that, you can be assured. Oh yes,
and "Pass me that sundowner, please."
|
|