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Gallery One / African Wildlife Photography and Narratives

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Below are direct links to the Zimbabwe narratives:

Zimbabwe narrative -- "The Wildest Place -- On the Ground with the African Cape Buffalo"

Zimbabwe narrative -- "The Persistence of Memory -- (The) Ancient Wisdom (of Elephants)"

Zimbabwe narrative -- "(A Tribute to the) Guides of Zimbabwe"

Zimbabwe narrative -- "Rushinga and the Day of Reckoning"

Zimbabwe narrative -- "Third World"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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“Africa gets under your skin and into your soul.” -- Sue B.

"Great (!) Zimbabwe 2001 African Eclipse and Safari / Gallery One Narratives"

 

"The Wildest Place -- On the Ground with the African Cape Buffalo"

After a long and tedious drive across much of the southeastern quadrant of the country, we've arrived at Zimbabwe's second largest but least visited National Park, a vast 5000 square kilometer tract of wilderness bordering war-torn Mozambique on the east and effectively buttressing the well-known Kruger National Park in South Africa on the south. We're too late for a game activity tonight, but awake early (actually to some complaining -- are you kidding? -- when was the next time you thought you'd be back here to enjoy the early morning?) and pole across to the mainland and the Land Rovers.

Our accommodations are on an island at the confluence of the Save and Runde rivers; hence the need to cross water. The eastern channel of the Save is dry, and really looks much like a miniature micro-area of the Kalahari desert, actually some 800 kilometers to our west in Botswana. Driving over it to reach our island definitely requires the use of 4-wheel-drive in low range. The accommodations on the island are rather luxurious, consisting of an open lodge, bar and dining area and 8 individual raised thatched chalets (huts) with en-suite bathrooms, replete with twin beds and hanging mosquito netting. This is typical of back-country luxury in Africa, and is typical also of the strategy for visitation of the remote game preserves and national parks. All in all, it seems expensive, but when you factor in all food, drinks and guiding it honestly becomes a splendid bargain.

Upon poling (required because the river is too shallow for motors in midwinter, but cannot be traversed on foot because it is thick with crocodiles!) across the western channel of the huge Save river, our boatman lets us off for the short 50 meter walk across the sandy and rock shoreline and up to the Land Rovers. The process here is to drive about on very rugged jeep road tracks while searching for big game. The guide and driver this morning is Stephen Midzi (Learner Guide), an articulate, soft-spoken and dignified young man of 20. Guides here in Zimbabwe must complete a rigorous 5-year program of studies and field work to become fully qualified in the back country. Fully qualified is defined as one who has all the naturalist and ballistics skills and can then guide both from the vehicle and armed on foot. To receive your final diploma one must be on the ground and participate in the kill of one of the "Big 5" species. Much more on this in a later discourse on guiding; suffice it now to say that there are often instances when such rare big game (glorified by who might be described as western tree-hugging environmentalists -- I've often been described as same) needs to be managed and sometimes "culled" (killed). This complex and controversial subject will be addressed later as in the above-mentioned guiding and memory pieces.

We arrive at the Land Rovers and jump in. There are typically 2 or 3 long bench seats behind the cab, and a roll cage overhead. The vehicle is open, allowing for full 360 degree viewing. It's 6 AM and cold, really just above freezing, not untypical for wintertime in Zimbabwe. Because of the open vehicle we must wear hats, heavy coats and even gloves. Most of the vehicles are equipped with blankets as well. After a very short time we encounter a honey badger in the middle of the "road." This is a unique sighting, only possible because it is first light. The honey badger is a nocturnal species and rarely seen. I have a feeling it will be a good wildlife viewing day. Soon a young bull elephant steps onto the middle of the road. This encounter is different, though, than the encounters we've previously experienced with elephants. [Note: Cheryl and I have already been in the country for 10 days, having visited several national parks and having had the privilege of observing a Total Solar Eclipse from Rushinga, small rural community in northern Zimbabwe. We've seen literally hundreds of elephants, but he is the first one for the members of this particular tour.] This elephant is upset; you can clearly perceive this in his behavior. His ears are erect and stiff, his posture large and defiant -- we are on his turf and he's not happy. Stephen also reacts differently than the guides we've previously had. He guns the Land Rover and drives right at the elephant. The elephant turns for a moment, but then surprisingly turns back at us and executes a "mock charge." The tourists (including us) are rather afraid; this is a 5-ton animal we're challenging. The elephant eventually recedes to the heavy undergrowth and low forest ecosystem that we're in and Stephen explains that the elephants and wildlife in this area "remember" a time when they were hunted and poached (not altogether that long ago, perhaps 15 years or less) and are rather nonplused by the intrusion of Land Rovers in their "space." We encounter many other species and have a wonderful morning wildlife experience, returning eventually to the island for breakfast.

We're moved by the reaction of the animals we've encountered here at Gona-Re-Zhou National Park. It seems they're very different than the predictable and placid creatures (including lions!) we've previously seen . . .

We're moved by the reaction of the animals we've encountered here at Gona-Re-Zhou National Park. It seems they're very different than the predictable and placid creatures (including lions!) we've previously seen [but don't be lulled into a feeling of complacency -- we've learned that all the creatures will respond very differently if you change the silhouetted profile of the Land Rover (like standing up, for example) and to leave the confines of the vehicle in the presence of dangerous game would be lunacy]; there is something very special about this place. I can't put my finger on it, but it almost seems as though the animals here are the ones acting naturally, whereas the previous encounters now seem to have taken on a bit of a surreal staged appearance. My feelings must just be pyscho-babble, I soon conclude.

Japhet incredibly desires to approach (the Buffalo) on foot, so he maneuvers around them on various very rough tracks until we're downwind of the great, almost primeval, creatures.

We're off now a an additional game drive, and after poling across the shallow river we again mount our Land Rovers, this time with a different guide, Japhet Diza. He actually is the Chief Guide and general manager of Mahenye Lodge and is fully weapons-qualified. We drive about, encountering additional elephants and tracks of both lions and the elusive nocturnal leopard. Suddenly Japhet spots a large herd of African Cape Buffalo, known as the most dangerous of all the big game animals in Africa. It is said this is so because of their unpredictability and herd instincts. When upset they may charge en masse. Japhet incredibly desires to approach them on foot, so he maneuvers around them on various very rough tracks until we're downwind of the great, almost primeval, creatures. (I can't perceive any wind!) We leave the Land Rover and proceed on foot, Japhet (armed with a twin-chamber elephant gun) in the lead. We approach carefully in complete silence, ducking behind thick tree trunks along the way. As we approach from perhaps 50 meters, we are instructed to crawl though the thick grass, still moist from the morning dew. One of the tourons quietly asks Japhet whether if the Buffalo react would it be a good idea to stand? In perhaps his only display of negative emotion during our stay in the remote and wild area, Japhet very firmly notes: "Under no circumstance will you stand up -- you will only stay low or crawl!" We approach to within perhaps 20-25 meters and stop. The African Cape Buffalo are a communal species, and herds are protected by the males, who surround the group when threatened. Slowly each male (perhaps dozens are members of this huge herd) move slowly to the front to inspect the intruders -- us. They peer out over the heavy grass and vegetation, looking (perhaps listening and smelling) for our presence. They clearly know we're there, and we're not one of those loud diesel machines that always stay on the track. We're another species of animal, walking about near them, maybe threatening them. But we're small -- close to the ground -- perhaps a group of warthogs or something. And, being downwind (thank God!) we appear to possess no identifiable odor. One by one the great male Buffalo come over to inspect. Then -- and finally -- the much larger dominant male (no need to ask Japhet which one!) inches closer, perhaps to finally convince the herd of our unharmful presence. Japhet motions that if I'm very careful a few pictures are OK. How could he be so sure, and what good is a two-chamber elephant gun if perhaps a hundred Buffalo charge, I wonder? I do snap off several photographs (I wish this camera made less noise, but at least there are no electronic beeps, just mechanical noises) and we inch back and somewhat out of range. We never do disturb the herd, and the others in the second Land Rover are able to get a good look as well. I remember thinking that I was very happy that Japhet had finished all of his training and had been on the ground during a hunt of one of these great creatures. After some additional exciting encounters, we pole back over for lunch and conversation.

One by one the great male Buffalo come over to inspect. Then -- and finally -- the much larger dominant male (no need to ask Japhet which one!) inches closer, perhaps to finally convince the herd of our unharmful presence.

A new couple are additional visitors to camp; it's now full -- 16 people -- very intimate. The man is a South African and very experienced in the back country all over Africa. I ask why he's chosen this place, and he replies firmly and rather matter-of factly; "Well, I visit this place because Gona-Re-Zhou is the wildest place in Africa. I've been to all the parks in South Africa, East Africa, and even here in Zim and Botswana -- this is the wildest place by far."

Later, we encounter day-vistors (very rare) who have an outfitting background. They are scouting out the area for a possible trip. "What do you think of this place?", I ask. The couple responds, "We'll it's wild, but there is no game here. We prefer the larger, more popular parks -- better facilities, more access to game, all that stuff." Really.

That evening and throughout the rest of the trip we are haunted by the scenes at Gona-Re-Zhou. Is it possible that we have experienced one of the last truly wild places, where the animals are not at all impressed with the human factor, where the game protests such trivial human intrusions? Has the certainly rare and disappearing wild-west guiding style of the impeccably prepared Japhet Diza put us on the ground -- face to face -- with the most dangerous game on the continent? Have we, through blind luck and a sense of adventure, caressed the lips of the wildest place?

Has the certainly rare and disappearing wild-west guiding style of the impeccably prepared Japhet Diza put us on the ground -- face to face -- with the most dangerous game on the continent? Have we, through blind luck and a sense of adventure, caressed the lips of the wildest place?




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