The Big Show. The Big Ditch. The Great Kohuna. The Greatest Adventure on Earth. It's the Grand Canyon, of course.

But here, within the great walls of stone, the Earth's history (the history of life) is revealed. Two billion years of history, by most estimates.

And it is the Big Show. By everyone's standard. More than 10 miles wide and over 5000 feet deep, the Canyon is second only in the Solar System to the great canyon system on Mars. But here, within the great walls of stone, the Earth's history (the history of life) is revealed. Two billion years of history, by most estimates.

Geologically, it's rare to have exposed areas which were once eroded to nonexistence, only to be continually over-deposited. Such areas are called unconformities. Here in the Grand Canyon there exists the Unconformity, the Great Unconformity and the Greatest Unconformity! Lots of history. Over two billion years of history. Recently (one million years or so ago) youthful upstart volcanoes spewed lava amongst the lower canyons, forming a dam said to have been more than 900 feet high. It subsequently backed up the river for many miles, but now all that remains is Lava Falls, merely the largest navigable rapid in North America. Much more recently (in the turbulent 60's) house-sized boulders flooded into the river from Crystal Creek, transforming the once placid Crystal Rapid into the nastiest quarter mile on the river. Ever constant, ever changing.

The river. That's what this exercise is about. The river at the bottom of those two billion year old canyon walls. Although dammed (damned?) and abused, the river remains. This experience is mostly about the river. The river, we will learn, is a metaphor for all else.

The river, we will learn, is a metaphor for all else.

Brian's here. Brian, with all the cameras and equipment, high-tech boat and ailing back -- anxious family left behind -- this could be his last hurrah. He once owned a river company and has been successful in many other business ventures. Brian's a superb photographer with a specialty in action whitewater images. He's also politically active, making for the possibility of lively discussion as we descend into the Canyon.

Larry. With his two doctorates and plethora of education, Larry remains probably the most intelligent person I have ever met. Always glib (even about subjects he may not be altogether familiar with) Larry remains a joy. At 53 years old, he's the senior participant on the trip.

Jerry. He's the trip leader, the holder of a permit that took a decade to obtain. Excellent worker and wonderful organizer, he too is a joy in the outdoors. He comes equipped with a strong teaching background and zest for experiential education.

Roberta is Jerry's wife and life companion. She's a competent boatwoman, and will proceed downriver with her high school friend, Susie. They will float the first half of the journey (down to Phantom Ranch) in a craft marginally longer than ten feet. This is probably one of the smallest boats ever to attempt the Canyon and, in the realm of the towering waves, a huge challenge. The companionship of these intrepid women will be welcome to an otherwise graybeard "convention."

Doug, a long time friend and superlative oarsman, will take Roberta's craft through the second section of the Canyon, and will therefore row this tiny craft through the biggest whitewater in North America.

Jules. The wild Cowboy Italian, he's only rowed a few times. Jules is an expert rock climber, and is undoubtedly in the best physical shape of all of us. He's also the youngest, in his mid-thirties. His intense energy is a great asset on our journey.

Gary. Having rowed the Canyon twice with his 16 foot "white whale" (still small by Grand Canyon standards), he'll make this attempt with a sporty Aire boat, a type of catamaran for the river. A "humanistic" engineer, he once "drove" spacecraft into Mars orbit, only to have them "given" to another astrophysicist to receive instructions for the final descent. (He once likened this policy to a divorce. I can relate; I've been through two.)

Steve. My passenger. Good to have weight up front. Hope it's enough. A teacher and excellent companion, he adds much to the Canyon experience. He's a serious family man and fine artist. He will attempt to record the Canyon's many moods through photography, drawing and painting.

It's my first time down the Canyon, and frankly I'm quite apprehensive. The idea of running the 60 or so rapids carefully enough not to overturn is my challenge.

It's a group of graybeards and eccentrics, bringing with us all of our assets and liabilities, all of our expectations and disappointments, all of our prejudices and addictions. Everything. All this stuff, this baggage; all to be processed, both in-flow and at camp. Old war stories, new glory days; all will be pursued, perused, revised, regurgitated, remembered. As middle-aged men and women we wonder whether we'll have the physique, stamina and health to ever repeat this adventure. The long and short of it is, however, that we are but mere nano-second blips on the viewing screen of this timeless and eternal place.

The long and short of it is, however, that we are but mere nano-second blips on the viewing screen of this timeless and eternal place.

Why is this group here? Why leave behind appreciative wives, lovers, family? Why abandon laughably opulent homes in overpriced neighborhoods? Why ignore continuing responsibilities, dwindling savings accounts for future college expenses, personal businesses, public trusts, expensive vehicles, fancy possessions, power lunches, cellular do dahs; why leave all of this behind? Why not! All of this is the reason why we came here. To be humbled by the rock, the heat, the unrelenting whitewater, to be beaten up and thrown about. That's why. To understand (again) that humility in the presence of this place is really what we as humans are all about. Let's all be thankful there are still places where one is able to experience this necessary humility, to feel overwhelmed in the greater sense. That is what the Grand Canyon is, and that is why it is so intoxicating. And here the experience is proactive. You don't just look, you must act. You must become a part of this sacred place, part of the water, rock and sky.

Let's all be thankful there are still places where one is able to experience this necessary humility, to feel overwhelmed in the greater sense.

As we float beyond the Navajo Bridge and begin to see the walls of Marble Canyon stack up, a quiet reverence overwhelms us. Soon, around a few turns in the river, we hear the distant roar of the first rapid. Let's proceed on this, the greatest adventure of the planet. Let's descend into Major Powell's Great Unknown. It's showtime.

 

Copyright Willis Greiner, 1994. All rights reserved.